One of China’s biggest stars, Shen Teng, leads the acclaimed international box office sensation Once Upon a Time in the Middle East. Seeking a fresh start, chef Xu Fu travels to the Middle East to support his family and repay his debts. Alongside restaurant manager Ma Junsheng, he transforms the struggling Dragon Restaurant into a thriving business. But when war engulfs the city, their hard-won success is shattered and the restaurant becomes a refuge for those caught in the conflict. As danger closes in, Xu Fu must risk everything to protect his newfound community and preserve a small beacon of hope amid the devastation.
It’s not too often that you come across a film that’s for everyone, because Once Upon a Time in the Middle East has it all. Whether you’re into drama, family, action, thrills, period pieces, or adventure, this cinematic masterpiece caters to every type of film enthusiast. Director Muye Wen knows what he’s doing, not only entertaining you as a moviegoer but also forcing you to reevaluate your perception of good and evil. Not only is this film fantastic, but it’s also one of the best films I’ve seen all year and a sure contender for Best Picture. With a runtime of slightly over two hours, you’re blessed with a compelling story, characters you fall in love with, and a daunting but rich narrative that will leave you shaken by the tragedies of war. It also warns you that your path to heaven can quickly shift to a path to hell if you’re not careful and fail to prioritize what’s most important in life.
The film starts with an exquisite introduction to Chinese culture, specifically its cuisine. These aren’t just pretty shots of foreign foods from the perspective of an American like myself. Instead, they offer a swift, step-by-step look at the passionate art of crafting food with love from all the important angles. Even if you’re well-versed in the different foods from across the globe, the shots in the first twenty minutes will increase your appetite for discovery like never before. You might find yourself salivating and telling yourself, “I have to try this dish, even if it’s the last thing I do!” It’s a beautiful display of culinary arts, to say the least.
This film centers around a spectacular cast of characters, with the lead being Chef Xu Fu (Teng Shen). He’s an expert in the kitchen, knows his worth, and speaks his mind. The unfortunate side of him is that he’s initially selfish, thinking only of himself and pushing his daughter to the side. That latter half of his description is detestable, but the film still includes elements of his character that you can’t help but respect. He’s joined by his teammate, Ma Junsheng (Qiming Jiang). Their partnership seems unbreakable, and you’re excited to ride along with them on their journey to survive. They’re not only trying to manage a restaurant but also trying to stay alive, literally, with a violent war surrounding them from all directions. I could go down the list of the rest of the supporting characters, but instead, I’ll just say that the rest of the cast is just as fascinating. They all get ample screen time, without a moment being wasted on unnecessary fluff. Their performances are also incredibly believable and deserve to be recognized.
What should be obvious is that, since this film has a heavy focus on war, people are going to die. They do, and it’s beyond tragic and heartbreaking. It feels as if someone you knew personally in real life has passed away, leaving you gasping for air. You’ll want a moment to pause and catch your breath, but since the characters can’t do that during the film, you can’t either. You’re forced, as an audience member, to press on.
I believe it’s the way the director captures the violence with the camera that makes it so stunning. There are many cuts during these scenes, but the majority of the shots appear to be filmed in one take, or at least the editing creates that illusion. The camera stays steady, roaming around in all 360 degrees and capturing every character paralyzed in fear. There’s always a running joke in horror movies when the bad guy is pursuing a victim that they need to “run.” But in this film, given their situation, you can truly understand why it’s not that easy. Seeing this on screen is an experience you’ll never forget.
What intensifies the battles is the score by composer Choa Huang. Huang continues to bring forth a recurring theme of heavy bass and large horns, as if the world is coming to an end. It’s scary, heart-pounding, and epic all at once. Combined with the great direction, the score makes it feel as if hell is rising on Earth with no escape, which is beyond frightening.
Not everything in this film is black and white, either. One moment, you’re cheering for the good guys, while the next, you’re cheering for the perceived bad guys. At times, it’s difficult to establish who’s who. Is it murder to kill someone who took the innocent life of someone you loved? What if that person struck first? Was this bombing justified or not? One man’s terrorist is another man’s freedom fighter. These are just some of the endless themes that run throughout this film, making you sit down and think harder than you’ve probably ever had to think before.
It’s this complex narrative that makes this film so great. There’s a lot of pain and anguish within it, and it continues to surface at random moments, without any indication or warning that it’s creeping around the corner. You’re caught by surprise, which continues to raise the stakes as each minute passes. Characters move from the light to the dark side, and it’s a little embarrassing to say, but I understand where they’re coming from. I may not agree with their actions, but at least I understand them, and you most likely will, too.
The events in this film span a number of years. Even with the way it starts by showing the ending toward the beginning of the film, you’re still not aware of how it will all end. There’s a lingering question of how we got to this point, and the film doesn’t reveal the answer until the end, as it should.
Another great aspect of the film is the characters’ growth over time. While some start off passive and weak, they end up becoming powerful and strong by the end. This film also demonstrates how one act of kindness, such as providing someone with a free meal, can have lifelong effects that can shape an entire neighborhood or civilization.
This film causes you to dream while also reminding you not to take the little things for granted. If you have a way out, you need to take it and not allow yourself to be consumed by greed. Those elements can change your life forever, for better or worse, and we get to witness that and so much more in this achievement of filmmaking brilliance.
I haven’t seen a film this well-produced in a while, and the only aspect that keeps it from receiving a perfect score is a technical issue: the subtitles flash across the screen a little too quickly. Other than that, this was a pleasure to watch, and I recommend it to everyone because of its unapologetic, relentless story of love, grief, pain, passion, and sorrow.